by Dr Rahim Said
When I was growing up, the kebaya was a constant in my life. It wasn’t just a garment — it was a statement of elegance, identity, and belonging.
Women from various ethnic groups in my community wore it with pride, whether Malay, Peranakan, or even Chinese. The kebaya was not merely clothing; it was a living testament to the interconnected cultural fabric of Southeast Asia.
Today, it stands tall as a Unesco-recognised intangible cultural heritage, marking a significant moment for the region’s shared history.
The kebaya, with its long sleeves, intricate embroidery, and versatile appeal, has woven its way through time and across borders. This traditional garment, popularised in the early 20th century, reflects a unique blend of influences, including Malay, Javanese, Chinese, and European designs.
Its journey to global recognition through a joint nomination by Singapore, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand underscores its role as a symbol of shared heritage and cultural diplomacy.
A Shared Legacy
The kebaya’s elevation to Unesco’s heritage list celebrates not only its aesthetic beauty but also its deep-rooted significance. It transcends national boundaries, representing the multiculturalism and interwoven histories of Southeast Asia.
For Malaysia, the kebaya is a reminder of the harmony that emerges when diverse cultures coexist. For Indonesia, it is a proud emblem of its sartorial legacy. In Singapore, it links the modern Peranakan identity to its rich past.
The joint nomination is a triumph of collaboration in a region often fraught with territorial and cultural disputes. It serves as a reminder that cultural heritage is not exclusive to any single nation — it is fluid, dynamic, and meant to be shared.
The kebaya is as much a Malaysian garment as it is an Indonesian one, as much Singaporean as it is Bruneian or Thai. It is a common legacy, owned by the people who wear it, cherish it, and pass its traditions forward.
Preserving the Kebaya for Future Generations
Unesco’s recognition is not just an honour; it is also a responsibility. Intangible cultural heritage is inherently fragile—it relies on living traditions, on people remembering, practicing, and teaching.
The kebaya is no exception. With modernity, traditional garments like the kebaya face the risk of being relegated to museum exhibits or ceremonial occasions.
The challenge now is to ensure the kebaya remains a part of everyday life. Governments, cultural organisations, and communities must work together to promote its use and educate younger generations about its history and significance. Initiatives like kebaya festivals, fashion competitions, and educational programmes can keep the tradition vibrant and relevant.
More importantly, the fashion industry can play a crucial role in modernising the kebaya without losing its essence, making it appealing to the youth of Southeast Asia.
A Symbol of Unity
In a world often divided by nationalism and cultural appropriation, the kebaya stands as a unifying symbol. It is a testament to what Southeast Asia can achieve when its nations collaborate. The successful joint nomination sends a powerful message: our shared heritage is stronger than our differences.
For me, seeing the kebaya gain this recognition is deeply personal. It takes me back to the women of my childhood — my mum. aunties, grandmother, neighbours, and teachers — who wore it with grace and dignity. It reminds me of a time when cultural expressions were not seen as divisive but as bridges between communities.
Looking Forward
As we celebrate the kebaya’s recognition, let us remember that cultural preservation is an ongoing effort.
The kebaya’s inscription on Unesco’s list is not the end of its journey but a new chapter. It is a call to action for all of us to honour, protect, and promote the traditions that define our identities and connect us as a region.
The kebaya, once a local garment, now belongs to the world. But its heart will always remain in Southeast Asia — a vibrant, multicultural region that wears its history, quite literally, on its sleeves.
WE